I had some experience in troubleshooting an RV-12 avionics problem last year and through that I learned a valuable lesson: label the wires!
So...
I finished up page 31-05 by pulling a total of three wires through the wire duct and out to the sides of the plane. One went to the left side where it will carry the signal from the wing lock pin position sensors. The other two went to the right side of the airplane. One will attach to the fuel level sensor in the fuel tank, and the other will attach to.... nothing. It's a GPS Data Out wire that can feed a last known position to the Emergency Locator Transmitter if I buy an optional piece of equipment. I won't.
Pulling the wires through takes a lot of concentration to make sure that I don't end up missing a string when each job is finished. I guess I could label the strings to make it easier now that I have a label maker, but I suppose that could be construed as just showing off.
The next job was one of those deceptively easy sounding jobs: put four snap bushings in. Sounds easy, then you see that they're tiny little bushings destined to be placed into very difficult areas. The holes are hidden behind cross members and other parts of airplane. The left side was easy since that's currently the "bottom," but the right side was trickier because it's now the "top." Those were more challenging because they were harder to reach, harder to see, and the consequences of dropping one of the bushings was almost certain loss of the little critter.
I dropped the same one twice.
Found it both times. I'd go out and buy lottery tickets tonight, but I think that was my quota of good luck for the month.
Just before calling it quits for the night, I got out the multimeter and tested the reed switches that will be mounted at the back of the armrests. For both of you that have been wondering why I spelled 'reading' in the title of this post as 'reeding,' now you know. These little switches do nothing but sense magnetism. If you remember, I put magnets down into the silver pin stops in the wing pins a few pages ago. The idea is that these switches will be positioned so that they will sense the magnet in the wing pin stop pins if, and only if, the pins are in correctly. This will (in theory) prevent someone from inadvertently flying away with the wing pins not secured. I say "in theory" because there's an override switch on the panel; someone will inevitably use the override switch and fly off with unsecured pins someday.
Anyway, I tested the switches because it is apparently difficult to get them positioned so that they work. I wanted to rule out the question of defective switches before beginning the installation.
They worked.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Starting on the wiring
I was finally able to get someone to help me roll the fuselage on its side (thanks, Honey!) so I can get started on the wiring. While having it on its side will make some of the smaller jobs to come more difficult, it was really the only way that I'd be able to get down inside there to work on the stuff down in the tunnel. I dread the day when I have to roll it upright again; despite my preparation prior to the roll, I still managed to miss one of the clecos stuck in the side. It got bent flat to the skin. I was able to reach in and remove it, but I couldn't see what damage (if any) that it caused.
So, working conditions are still pretty crowded and it's kind of dark back there against the wall, but at least I can get back to work.
The first order of business in the wiring is to put a conduit across the back of the center section. This conduit will protect various wires as they make their way out of the center tunnel and get routed to either side of the airplane. It's starts as a benign looking 36" long piece of plastic duct tube.
The tube needs to have a 7/16" hole cut in it to allow wires to enter at the center. I made a starter cut with a razor knife, then worked a 7/16" bit into the hole. Using the bit as a template, I then enlarged the cut out hole to the full 7/16". It isn't pretty, but it will be placed on the bottom of the duct where no one can see it.
Three strings get run through the duct to be used to pull wires through. One string goes all the way from right to left, and the other two go from either side and exit through the center. Dangling the string down through the duct worked fine for the left to right string, but it seemed that it might be a bit more of a pain for the strings that needed to exit through the center hole. I was able to grab a loop of the full-length string and pull it out of the center hole. I then tied the other two strings to each end of the full-length string and used it to pull the side-to-center strings through.
After that it was a simple matter to run the full-length string again. I tied a couple pieces of flange scrap to the strings exiting from the right and left sides, and secured the strings coming out of the center with the leftover piece of firewall grommet. The idea was to keep any of them from accidentally getting pulled out of the duct.
The duct is mounted to the back of the center section with four cushion clamps. These clamps also go by the name Adel clamps, or as I'm sure I will soon be referring to them, "the nutplates of the finishing kit." They're a royal pain to deal with, as it turns out. In any event, as I was perusing the drawings prior to getting the clamps ready I saw a bushing that I had either failed to install previously or was one of those cases where Van's figures you ought to know by now that you need to put in a bushing where there's one shown in the drawing.
In it went!
The clamps are held in with a screw and a locknut. The locknuts were tossed in a bag with three or four other sizes, so I had to play the figure-out-which-ones-you-need game.
The hard part about dealing with these clamps is getting them to close far enough to get the screw through. It's hard enough to do when you have them right there on the work bench; it gets downright irritating to have to do it in the tight confines of the airplane. I thought I'd try a little trick I've seen mentioned before. Basically you hold the clamp shut with a piece of safety wire, screw the clamp into place, and then remove the wire. I closed the first clamp down with a pair of Harbor Freight cheaper-than-dirt-and-a-bargain-at-half-that-price vise grips.
I wired it shut with safety wire, but in that state it was clamped too tightly to fit over the duct. I cut the wire and started over, this time with a lesser close.
That worked - I did all four clamps and was able to slip them all onto the duct.
I put the duct into the plane and had a scary moment. It looked like I had gotten the center strings caught under one of the clamps and that I'd have to take it all apart to get the string out. In fact, one of the upper clamps was so loose on the duct that it had slid down and caught the string. It was just a matter of pushing it back up into place.
Then I found that I had the wire so loose that it was useless.
The clamps in this location were accessible enough that it didn't matter that the safety wire was useless. I was able to just squeeze them closed.
Next, the comm radio and transponder antenna cables get run down through the panel base, over the rudder pedals, and through the firewall bushings. The fit across the top of the rudder pedals was pretty tight, so I had to back out the bolts that hold them in place. There's also a really long "phone cord" that runs down the same length as the antenna wires, but it keeps going all the way back into the center hole of the wire duct and out to the right side of the fuselage. It will eventually connect to the Emergency Locator Transmitter, or ELT. I had to use one of the pull strings to get it to go through the duct and I was careful to make sure that I pulled a replacement string through along with the phone wire.
The wording of the directions was rather unclear as to which of the bushings the antenna cables were supposed to go through; basically it said "pick one." I stuffed everything down the same hole. The plans mention that it might be necessary to remove the snap bushings (which kind of sucks - they're called 'snap bushings' because they snap into place and thus become very difficult to remove) and cut a slit in them in order to get the wires to go through. This was the case with the second antenna wire because the wire from the first took up so much of the open room in the bushing that the BNC connector of the second couldn't fit through. I took out the bushing and used the band saw to cut a slit in the side. With the slit done, the bushing could be opened enough to slip the wires into place.
Unfortunately, that also had to be done with the other bushing that I had just put in. With that one, I couldn't use the band saw because I couldn't get the bushing out of the airplane without removing the wire duct and the strings. There was no way that I was going to do that! I just used a hacksaw instead. I sure wish they had mentioned the need for the slit before I put it in! I was kind of angry about that, at least right up until I found the spot in the directions where they actually tell you to install the bushing four or five steps later. I was ahead of the game on that one!
The next bundle of wires includes the wires that go to the fuel flow transducer, the electric fuel pump, the stall warning vane, a couple of things I haven't figured out yet, and the electric pitch trim servo. This bundle also has the two power wires for the avionics cooling fans. In fact, it's those that get done first.
The plans have us separate out the RED/WHT wires. These are wires that are alternating red and white, not two separate wires that are red and white. That's an important distinction because there are both in the bundle. At this point, all that was required was to strip their ends.
I just hung the whole bundle on the plane while I figured out what to do next.
Actually I was separating out the wires by length. Starting with the shortest length first and working my way back to the longest, I fed them through the bushing, across the top of the rudder pedals, and through as many fuselage bushings as they'd reach. The plans suggesting taping the end down to keep a sufficient length for reaching the radios and such that they will connect to behind the panel.
When it came time to get some terminal fittings to attach the cooling fans, I got to play another game of find-what-you're-looking-for with a pile of electrical fittings.
A hoop terminal gets crimped onto the ground wire of each fan.
With the terminal attached to the ground wire and thus no longer able to be fit down into the ground socket on the only 12V battery I had handy, I had to stuff a piece of safety wire in there in order to run the fan to determine which way the wind blew. This is a required piece of information since one fan will be installed blowing up into the avionics bay and the other will be installed blowing down. In case you're interested, the fans blow away from the label on the fan blade hub.
The fans are held in with two screws each, and each screw uses an AN960-6 washer. Those little washers led me a merry chase! First, it took forever to find them in the inventory sheet because I'm in the habit of reading the part number in the first column. Consider the way bag 2776-1 is displayed as compared to bag 2777-1.
If that wasn't bad enough, it was followed by an extraordinarily frustrating hangar-wide search for bag 2777-1, which being just a thin little bag of washers was eventually found snugged up under the flap of bag 2796.
I was finally ready to install the fans. I set them in place on the avionics shelf while I gathered up my tools. That also gave me time to ponder the less-than-helpful directive in the plans: "Do not over tighten the screws....because this can break the fans!" An exclamation mark!! Probably the first I've seen in the plans! THIS MUST BE IMPORTANT!!! So, how do I know if I've over tightened a screw? Is there a torque value provided?
Nope.
The answer is quite simple: if you break the fan, you've over tightened the screw. What could be simpler?
I marked the shelf with a Sharpie(tm) to make sure I got the fans oriented correctly. Doing so reminded me of the old José Jiménez skits on the Ed Sullivan show. Those were, of course, way before my time, but I remember seeing them in the movie The Right Stuff.
Another cushion clamp gets installed on one of the fans. This one uses an AN960-8 washer, which again caused a bit of angst during the prolonged search through the inventory list. I finally found them in bag 2775-2, but note that this time there is not even a hidden explanatory entry like there was for the AN960-6 washers.
After an exhausting game of which-is-the-right-one, I narrowed it down to two options. I took a chance and went for the one on the right.
Yet another clamp gets mounted onto the fuel flow transducer. This one required the removal of one of the bolts that hold the transducer in place - the clamp gets attached to that bolt and the bolt is then replaced. Three terminals were also required to be added to the ends of the wires so they could be attached to the wires from the transducer. The plans said that I'd need to attach six terminals, but the three on the transducer were already installed. That must have been done as part of the fuselage kit. I dimly remember doing it.
The next wire was one of those that's mildly inconvenient because of the fuselage being on its side. I had to get to the contact panel for the left wing to attach the wire that will power the stall warning vane.
Then I had to feed the wire up through the grommets in the seat ribs and grab it through the opening in the fuselage.
It was a bit if an aerobics exercise to crimp the terminal on in that location, but once that was done it was an easy matter to attach it to the terminal in the contact block.
By this time, it was getting harder to run the wires over the rudder pedals as it was getting pretty crowded up there. It was unpleasant working down in the rudder area too; someone in there hadn't had a shower yet.
The last step of the day was to attach the power wire to the electric fuel pump. Just as with the fuel flow transducer, this required the removal of a bolt and the installation of a clamp. Also, the ground wire would get attached to the bolt with a hoop terminal. It was a tight reach down into there, and I couldn't help noticing that if I were to accidentally drop the bolt, it could fall through the lightening holes in those ribs and end up way down against the side skin of the fuselage where it would be next to impossible to retrieve.
The thought process went exactly like this:
"Geez, be careful not to drop that bolt... it would be an absolute....... CRAP!!!!;
Well, not exactly like that. I don't think the actual word was 'crap', although the part about it falling all the way down to the side skin was 100% accurate.
I remember that day I bought this little extend-o-grabber as an impulse buy at Harbor Freight. Well, now I remember it even more fondly!
The dropping of the bolt happened because I hadn't used the safety wire trick with this clamp, having found it to be unnecessary with the wire duct. Clearly it would be needed now, so out came the wire. I wired it up and was ready to try again.
The bolt went right in! Piece of cake, and all I had left to do was remove the safety wire and I'd be done for the day.
You'd think by now that I would know better than to ever think "this will be easy."
It took twenty minutes to get that wire out of there, primarily because I couldn't find a tool that would fit down there, and I tried a lot of tools!
I finally got it out of there and put the wire bundle in place through it. You can hardly tell that an epic battle had been fought and won here just minutes before.
It wasn't an easy fight, as the marks on my wrists show. It looks almost as if I'd spent twenty minutes trying to slash my wrists with the wrong side of the knife.
Another ten minutes and I might have considered turning the knife over!
Update with a missive from the mail bag:
Well, I'll start by saying that Torsten makes a fair point and I guess I could have / should have done that, but then I wouldn't have had an interesting story to share, right? Or maybe I'm a Van's purist: I want the full, unadulterated Van's experience. Reading ahead would be just like watching "Scenes from Next Week's Show," something I studiously avoid.
Okay, while those seemingly facetious reasons are actually at least partially true, they're not true enough for me to deliberately ignore simple, labor-saving advice. I read through the notes Torsten refers to while I was still building the fuselage and I'm sure I read one about installing the clamp on the fuel pump while it was still easily accessible, but I didn't have the clamp at the time. It was months after I installed the pump that I ordered the finish kit, and by that time it wouldn't have mattered anymore. One could argue that it would have been worth ordering the $.34 (or whatever) clamp ahead of time in so as to avoid the hassle of installing it later, but that's only obvious in hindsight.
It might be a good time to see if Joe has a list of finish kit notes, though. I'm sure there are more pitfalls just over the horizon!
So, working conditions are still pretty crowded and it's kind of dark back there against the wall, but at least I can get back to work.
The first order of business in the wiring is to put a conduit across the back of the center section. This conduit will protect various wires as they make their way out of the center tunnel and get routed to either side of the airplane. It's starts as a benign looking 36" long piece of plastic duct tube.
The tube needs to have a 7/16" hole cut in it to allow wires to enter at the center. I made a starter cut with a razor knife, then worked a 7/16" bit into the hole. Using the bit as a template, I then enlarged the cut out hole to the full 7/16". It isn't pretty, but it will be placed on the bottom of the duct where no one can see it.
Three strings get run through the duct to be used to pull wires through. One string goes all the way from right to left, and the other two go from either side and exit through the center. Dangling the string down through the duct worked fine for the left to right string, but it seemed that it might be a bit more of a pain for the strings that needed to exit through the center hole. I was able to grab a loop of the full-length string and pull it out of the center hole. I then tied the other two strings to each end of the full-length string and used it to pull the side-to-center strings through.
After that it was a simple matter to run the full-length string again. I tied a couple pieces of flange scrap to the strings exiting from the right and left sides, and secured the strings coming out of the center with the leftover piece of firewall grommet. The idea was to keep any of them from accidentally getting pulled out of the duct.
The duct is mounted to the back of the center section with four cushion clamps. These clamps also go by the name Adel clamps, or as I'm sure I will soon be referring to them, "the nutplates of the finishing kit." They're a royal pain to deal with, as it turns out. In any event, as I was perusing the drawings prior to getting the clamps ready I saw a bushing that I had either failed to install previously or was one of those cases where Van's figures you ought to know by now that you need to put in a bushing where there's one shown in the drawing.
In it went!
The clamps are held in with a screw and a locknut. The locknuts were tossed in a bag with three or four other sizes, so I had to play the figure-out-which-ones-you-need game.
The hard part about dealing with these clamps is getting them to close far enough to get the screw through. It's hard enough to do when you have them right there on the work bench; it gets downright irritating to have to do it in the tight confines of the airplane. I thought I'd try a little trick I've seen mentioned before. Basically you hold the clamp shut with a piece of safety wire, screw the clamp into place, and then remove the wire. I closed the first clamp down with a pair of Harbor Freight cheaper-than-dirt-and-a-bargain-at-half-that-price vise grips.
I wired it shut with safety wire, but in that state it was clamped too tightly to fit over the duct. I cut the wire and started over, this time with a lesser close.
That worked - I did all four clamps and was able to slip them all onto the duct.
I put the duct into the plane and had a scary moment. It looked like I had gotten the center strings caught under one of the clamps and that I'd have to take it all apart to get the string out. In fact, one of the upper clamps was so loose on the duct that it had slid down and caught the string. It was just a matter of pushing it back up into place.
Then I found that I had the wire so loose that it was useless.
The clamps in this location were accessible enough that it didn't matter that the safety wire was useless. I was able to just squeeze them closed.
Next, the comm radio and transponder antenna cables get run down through the panel base, over the rudder pedals, and through the firewall bushings. The fit across the top of the rudder pedals was pretty tight, so I had to back out the bolts that hold them in place. There's also a really long "phone cord" that runs down the same length as the antenna wires, but it keeps going all the way back into the center hole of the wire duct and out to the right side of the fuselage. It will eventually connect to the Emergency Locator Transmitter, or ELT. I had to use one of the pull strings to get it to go through the duct and I was careful to make sure that I pulled a replacement string through along with the phone wire.
The wording of the directions was rather unclear as to which of the bushings the antenna cables were supposed to go through; basically it said "pick one." I stuffed everything down the same hole. The plans mention that it might be necessary to remove the snap bushings (which kind of sucks - they're called 'snap bushings' because they snap into place and thus become very difficult to remove) and cut a slit in them in order to get the wires to go through. This was the case with the second antenna wire because the wire from the first took up so much of the open room in the bushing that the BNC connector of the second couldn't fit through. I took out the bushing and used the band saw to cut a slit in the side. With the slit done, the bushing could be opened enough to slip the wires into place.
Unfortunately, that also had to be done with the other bushing that I had just put in. With that one, I couldn't use the band saw because I couldn't get the bushing out of the airplane without removing the wire duct and the strings. There was no way that I was going to do that! I just used a hacksaw instead. I sure wish they had mentioned the need for the slit before I put it in! I was kind of angry about that, at least right up until I found the spot in the directions where they actually tell you to install the bushing four or five steps later. I was ahead of the game on that one!
The next bundle of wires includes the wires that go to the fuel flow transducer, the electric fuel pump, the stall warning vane, a couple of things I haven't figured out yet, and the electric pitch trim servo. This bundle also has the two power wires for the avionics cooling fans. In fact, it's those that get done first.
The plans have us separate out the RED/WHT wires. These are wires that are alternating red and white, not two separate wires that are red and white. That's an important distinction because there are both in the bundle. At this point, all that was required was to strip their ends.
I just hung the whole bundle on the plane while I figured out what to do next.
Actually I was separating out the wires by length. Starting with the shortest length first and working my way back to the longest, I fed them through the bushing, across the top of the rudder pedals, and through as many fuselage bushings as they'd reach. The plans suggesting taping the end down to keep a sufficient length for reaching the radios and such that they will connect to behind the panel.
When it came time to get some terminal fittings to attach the cooling fans, I got to play another game of find-what-you're-looking-for with a pile of electrical fittings.
A hoop terminal gets crimped onto the ground wire of each fan.
With the terminal attached to the ground wire and thus no longer able to be fit down into the ground socket on the only 12V battery I had handy, I had to stuff a piece of safety wire in there in order to run the fan to determine which way the wind blew. This is a required piece of information since one fan will be installed blowing up into the avionics bay and the other will be installed blowing down. In case you're interested, the fans blow away from the label on the fan blade hub.
The fans are held in with two screws each, and each screw uses an AN960-6 washer. Those little washers led me a merry chase! First, it took forever to find them in the inventory sheet because I'm in the habit of reading the part number in the first column. Consider the way bag 2776-1 is displayed as compared to bag 2777-1.
If that wasn't bad enough, it was followed by an extraordinarily frustrating hangar-wide search for bag 2777-1, which being just a thin little bag of washers was eventually found snugged up under the flap of bag 2796.
I was finally ready to install the fans. I set them in place on the avionics shelf while I gathered up my tools. That also gave me time to ponder the less-than-helpful directive in the plans: "Do not over tighten the screws....because this can break the fans!" An exclamation mark!! Probably the first I've seen in the plans! THIS MUST BE IMPORTANT!!! So, how do I know if I've over tightened a screw? Is there a torque value provided?
Nope.
The answer is quite simple: if you break the fan, you've over tightened the screw. What could be simpler?
I marked the shelf with a Sharpie(tm) to make sure I got the fans oriented correctly. Doing so reminded me of the old José Jiménez skits on the Ed Sullivan show. Those were, of course, way before my time, but I remember seeing them in the movie The Right Stuff.
Jose Jimenez : "My name, Jose Jimenez."Fan Blows Up? Oh, I hope not!
Ed Sullivan : "Well, now I see you have some of your space equipment with you. Uh, what is that called, the crash helmet?"
Jose Jimenez : "Oh, I hope not."
Another cushion clamp gets installed on one of the fans. This one uses an AN960-8 washer, which again caused a bit of angst during the prolonged search through the inventory list. I finally found them in bag 2775-2, but note that this time there is not even a hidden explanatory entry like there was for the AN960-6 washers.
After an exhausting game of which-is-the-right-one, I narrowed it down to two options. I took a chance and went for the one on the right.
Yet another clamp gets mounted onto the fuel flow transducer. This one required the removal of one of the bolts that hold the transducer in place - the clamp gets attached to that bolt and the bolt is then replaced. Three terminals were also required to be added to the ends of the wires so they could be attached to the wires from the transducer. The plans said that I'd need to attach six terminals, but the three on the transducer were already installed. That must have been done as part of the fuselage kit. I dimly remember doing it.
The next wire was one of those that's mildly inconvenient because of the fuselage being on its side. I had to get to the contact panel for the left wing to attach the wire that will power the stall warning vane.
Then I had to feed the wire up through the grommets in the seat ribs and grab it through the opening in the fuselage.
It was a bit if an aerobics exercise to crimp the terminal on in that location, but once that was done it was an easy matter to attach it to the terminal in the contact block.
By this time, it was getting harder to run the wires over the rudder pedals as it was getting pretty crowded up there. It was unpleasant working down in the rudder area too; someone in there hadn't had a shower yet.
The last step of the day was to attach the power wire to the electric fuel pump. Just as with the fuel flow transducer, this required the removal of a bolt and the installation of a clamp. Also, the ground wire would get attached to the bolt with a hoop terminal. It was a tight reach down into there, and I couldn't help noticing that if I were to accidentally drop the bolt, it could fall through the lightening holes in those ribs and end up way down against the side skin of the fuselage where it would be next to impossible to retrieve.
The thought process went exactly like this:
"Geez, be careful not to drop that bolt... it would be an absolute....... CRAP!!!!;
Well, not exactly like that. I don't think the actual word was 'crap', although the part about it falling all the way down to the side skin was 100% accurate.
I remember that day I bought this little extend-o-grabber as an impulse buy at Harbor Freight. Well, now I remember it even more fondly!
The dropping of the bolt happened because I hadn't used the safety wire trick with this clamp, having found it to be unnecessary with the wire duct. Clearly it would be needed now, so out came the wire. I wired it up and was ready to try again.
The bolt went right in! Piece of cake, and all I had left to do was remove the safety wire and I'd be done for the day.
You'd think by now that I would know better than to ever think "this will be easy."
It took twenty minutes to get that wire out of there, primarily because I couldn't find a tool that would fit down there, and I tried a lot of tools!
I finally got it out of there and put the wire bundle in place through it. You can hardly tell that an epic battle had been fought and won here just minutes before.
It wasn't an easy fight, as the marks on my wrists show. It looks almost as if I'd spent twenty minutes trying to slash my wrists with the wrong side of the knife.
Another ten minutes and I might have considered turning the knife over!
Update with a missive from the mail bag:
Torsten said...
I hate to say it, Dave! Do you remember how I read ahead and followed Joe's fuselage hints and installed that darn clamp next to the fuel pump when running the plumbing? That's why!
Well, I'll start by saying that Torsten makes a fair point and I guess I could have / should have done that, but then I wouldn't have had an interesting story to share, right? Or maybe I'm a Van's purist: I want the full, unadulterated Van's experience. Reading ahead would be just like watching "Scenes from Next Week's Show," something I studiously avoid.
Okay, while those seemingly facetious reasons are actually at least partially true, they're not true enough for me to deliberately ignore simple, labor-saving advice. I read through the notes Torsten refers to while I was still building the fuselage and I'm sure I read one about installing the clamp on the fuel pump while it was still easily accessible, but I didn't have the clamp at the time. It was months after I installed the pump that I ordered the finish kit, and by that time it wouldn't have mattered anymore. One could argue that it would have been worth ordering the $.34 (or whatever) clamp ahead of time in so as to avoid the hassle of installing it later, but that's only obvious in hindsight.
It might be a good time to see if Joe has a list of finish kit notes, though. I'm sure there are more pitfalls just over the horizon!
Labels:
Finish Kit,
Page 31-02,
Page 31-03,
Page 31-04,
Page 31-05
Friday, May 13, 2011
Why I Didn't Work on my Airplane Last Night
It's important to realize, but perhaps not intuitively obvious, that the act of building an airplane typically does not happen in a vacuum. The reality is that the airplane building project, even as meritorious as it is, often has to be set aside in favor of competing demands on my limited amounts of disposable time. Time, I've learned, is often very like money in a couple of respects: first, you seem to never enough of either, and second, you typically have more of one than the other.
So, where has all of my time gone? Well, I have a few things going on that seem to be demanding more than their fair share of my attention. First of all, I've been working on the leaking fuel tank on the RV-6. As you may recall, what started as a minor seepage on the left tank became a full-blown nine gallon leak under the ministrations of my local A&P. To be fair, it was my decision to have him attempt a repair with the tank still on the airplane; in retrospect it would have been best to just bite the bullet and remove the tank. And I would have made that decision, as it turns out, had I known how relatively easy it is to remove a fuel tank from an RV-6. Removing two 'B' nuts for the fuel and vent lines, a screw that holds the fuel indicator sensor line, a big bolt that supports the weight of the tank, and seventy-two screws is all that's required. It takes maybe half an hour.
It would take a couple of days for the Pro-Seal (fuel tank sealant) to set up after being applied Saturday morning, so I decided to merge another little project into the schedule. I've been right up against the limit of available disk space on my computer for quite awhile and it was becoming critical to do something about it. A quick trip to Best Buy for a new hard drive was all it took to come home with a spanking new 2 terabyte drive. I was surprised that a 2TB drive is even available (I remember the days when a hard drive with less than one millionth of that capacity was as big as a beer keg), much less that it was only $89. I'd had to decide between that drive and one half the size priced at $79. The faster drive was smaller, but faster. Since the new drive is intended for storage, I decided that capacity and reliability were more important than speed, especially for just a $10 difference.
I plugged the new drive into the computer without any difficulty whatsoever (which surprised me), but the computer failed to recognize that it was even there (which did not surprise me). Thus began a journey of pain and frustration that is not yet complete nearly a week later. After a few hours of monkeying around down in the BIOS (the very guts of a computer - a mistake here can be fatal) I managed to get the computer to 'see' the new hard drive by changing some settings that have not often even been seen by mere mortals. I took a break to pat myself on the back for having resolved such a thorny and exotic problem. I figured one person in 10,000 could accomplish such a miracle.
The other 9,999 would have been smart enough to just have the drive installed by someone that knew what they were doing.
I rebooted the computer and logged into Windows. Windows still couldn't find the drive, though. Off to Google where I learned that the drive has to be "initialized" first. I did that, and proudly patted myself on the back for a job well done. Welcome, drive F:, you will be a great help.
What's that you say? You need to be formatted first?
Ok, let's try the 'Quick Format' option.
Fail.
Sigh.
Let's try the 'Deep Format' option.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Sigh.
Try again, thinking that maybe someone had bumped the cancel button.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Swear. Stupid Windows crap.
[Next day]
I downloaded a different disk format utility to try.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Consider suicide.
Try again.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Swear. It's Wednesday by this time. I'm still doing this in parallel with fixing the RV-6 fuel tank. We'll get back to that.
I noticed that the formatting seemed to be failing right around the halfway point.
Google "2TB drive format fails at 1TB"
Google: "There's an easy fix for that. Just download these new disk drivers from nVidia."
Piece of cake, that. Apparently the brilliant folks at nVidia had, like me, never envisioned a day when a consumer could walk into Best Buy and walk out with a 2TB drive and had imposed a 1.1TB limit.
I downloaded the drivers and applied them, all the while patting myself on the back for having fixed another problem. We're well into '1 person in 100,000' territory here.
Rebooted.
Fail.
WHAT????
The computer would not even boot up. It just sat there saying 'Detecting Array' or something helpful like that. That's not good! Having only changed one thing (the disk drivers), there was no doubt at all as to where the problem came from. Bad drivers. Unfortunately, there's no way to fix that if the drives won't even work! There are few feelings of despair deeper than those you get from "bricking" your own computer.
I was completely at a loss. I had no idea what to try next. I don't have a Windows boot CD, so I couldn't sneak my way back into Windows that way, and even if I could, I'd have no hard drives.
As a last, desperate attempt to save the computer, I acted on a gut feeling. You have to realize that part of the "story of my life" is that things that have worked perfectly for years will fail at exactly the same time that I make a risky change to some tangentially related thing. In this case, I had changed the disk drivers. Could it be that there was actually some unexpected and unrelated problem with the drives? I decided that I had nothing to lose; I removed all of the cables to the drives and put them back on.
It worked! I was able to get to the Windows log-in screen! I immediately logged in, patting myself on the back for another miraculous save. One in a million, mister! One. In. A. Million.
"Preparing your desktop..."
Whuuuh? I already have a Windows des....
BAM! BSOD. Blue. Screen. Of. Death.
Swear.
Re-visit the idea of suicide. Also consider blasting PC to smithereens with shotgun.
Or both, noting that the order would need to be reversed.
The BSOD is yet another pit of despair. The emotional roller coaster had just gone down another steep hill.
I diddled around with stuff, hoping against hope that the blind squirrel would find another nut. After half a dozen tries, 'Preparing your desktop...' actually took me into Windows.
"Your profile is corrupt. This is a temporary profile; any changes you make will not be saved. Contact your system administrator."
I'll take that deal. By this time it was late Wednesday night. We had gone from Winter to Spring in one day, and our air conditioner is broken. Windows is going to have to wait.
So, what went on with the leaking fuel tank during the same period? Well, that's another story.
I put it back on the airplane Monday night, then went to find the gas guy to put five gallons of gas in. The idea was to put in five gallons at a time in case it leaked; we'd be able to locate the leaking area, if there is one, more easily that way.
There was good news and bad news. The bad news was that they wanted $6.18/gal for it. The good news? They didn't have any.
Tuesday night I stopped by again. I chased down the gas dude and told him I still needed that five gallons of gas, and that I'd meet him at the hangar. After ten minutes of waiting for him, I figured there had been a miscommunication somewhere. I was just getting ready to go find him when I heard "Chuff..... Bang..... Growl..... Chuff...." somewhere down the taxiway. A few minutes later, the truck emerged around the corner of the hangars, doing about half a mile an hour. I apologized to the fuel dude, "I didn't know I was supposed to help you push it."
An inspection on Wednesday afternoon showed no leakage. I decided to skip the five-gallons-at-a-time test due to the difficulty in getting the fuel truck out there, so I went with ten gallons. As I was patting myself on the back for being such a swell guy and saving the fuel dude the effort and humiliation of driving that busted up truck out to my hangar, I saw the receipt that I was signing:
$6.70/gallon.
Sigh.
Swear.
So, where has all of my time gone? Well, I have a few things going on that seem to be demanding more than their fair share of my attention. First of all, I've been working on the leaking fuel tank on the RV-6. As you may recall, what started as a minor seepage on the left tank became a full-blown nine gallon leak under the ministrations of my local A&P. To be fair, it was my decision to have him attempt a repair with the tank still on the airplane; in retrospect it would have been best to just bite the bullet and remove the tank. And I would have made that decision, as it turns out, had I known how relatively easy it is to remove a fuel tank from an RV-6. Removing two 'B' nuts for the fuel and vent lines, a screw that holds the fuel indicator sensor line, a big bolt that supports the weight of the tank, and seventy-two screws is all that's required. It takes maybe half an hour.
It would take a couple of days for the Pro-Seal (fuel tank sealant) to set up after being applied Saturday morning, so I decided to merge another little project into the schedule. I've been right up against the limit of available disk space on my computer for quite awhile and it was becoming critical to do something about it. A quick trip to Best Buy for a new hard drive was all it took to come home with a spanking new 2 terabyte drive. I was surprised that a 2TB drive is even available (I remember the days when a hard drive with less than one millionth of that capacity was as big as a beer keg), much less that it was only $89. I'd had to decide between that drive and one half the size priced at $79. The faster drive was smaller, but faster. Since the new drive is intended for storage, I decided that capacity and reliability were more important than speed, especially for just a $10 difference.
I plugged the new drive into the computer without any difficulty whatsoever (which surprised me), but the computer failed to recognize that it was even there (which did not surprise me). Thus began a journey of pain and frustration that is not yet complete nearly a week later. After a few hours of monkeying around down in the BIOS (the very guts of a computer - a mistake here can be fatal) I managed to get the computer to 'see' the new hard drive by changing some settings that have not often even been seen by mere mortals. I took a break to pat myself on the back for having resolved such a thorny and exotic problem. I figured one person in 10,000 could accomplish such a miracle.
The other 9,999 would have been smart enough to just have the drive installed by someone that knew what they were doing.
I rebooted the computer and logged into Windows. Windows still couldn't find the drive, though. Off to Google where I learned that the drive has to be "initialized" first. I did that, and proudly patted myself on the back for a job well done. Welcome, drive F:, you will be a great help.
What's that you say? You need to be formatted first?
Ok, let's try the 'Quick Format' option.
Fail.
Sigh.
Let's try the 'Deep Format' option.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Sigh.
Try again, thinking that maybe someone had bumped the cancel button.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Swear. Stupid Windows crap.
[Next day]
I downloaded a different disk format utility to try.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Consider suicide.
Try again.
[six hours go by]
Fail.
Swear. It's Wednesday by this time. I'm still doing this in parallel with fixing the RV-6 fuel tank. We'll get back to that.
I noticed that the formatting seemed to be failing right around the halfway point.
Google "2TB drive format fails at 1TB"
Google: "There's an easy fix for that. Just download these new disk drivers from nVidia."
Piece of cake, that. Apparently the brilliant folks at nVidia had, like me, never envisioned a day when a consumer could walk into Best Buy and walk out with a 2TB drive and had imposed a 1.1TB limit.
I downloaded the drivers and applied them, all the while patting myself on the back for having fixed another problem. We're well into '1 person in 100,000' territory here.
Rebooted.
Fail.
WHAT????
The computer would not even boot up. It just sat there saying 'Detecting Array' or something helpful like that. That's not good! Having only changed one thing (the disk drivers), there was no doubt at all as to where the problem came from. Bad drivers. Unfortunately, there's no way to fix that if the drives won't even work! There are few feelings of despair deeper than those you get from "bricking" your own computer.
I was completely at a loss. I had no idea what to try next. I don't have a Windows boot CD, so I couldn't sneak my way back into Windows that way, and even if I could, I'd have no hard drives.
As a last, desperate attempt to save the computer, I acted on a gut feeling. You have to realize that part of the "story of my life" is that things that have worked perfectly for years will fail at exactly the same time that I make a risky change to some tangentially related thing. In this case, I had changed the disk drivers. Could it be that there was actually some unexpected and unrelated problem with the drives? I decided that I had nothing to lose; I removed all of the cables to the drives and put them back on.
It worked! I was able to get to the Windows log-in screen! I immediately logged in, patting myself on the back for another miraculous save. One in a million, mister! One. In. A. Million.
"Preparing your desktop..."
Whuuuh? I already have a Windows des....
BAM! BSOD. Blue. Screen. Of. Death.
Swear.
Re-visit the idea of suicide. Also consider blasting PC to smithereens with shotgun.
Or both, noting that the order would need to be reversed.
The BSOD is yet another pit of despair. The emotional roller coaster had just gone down another steep hill.
I diddled around with stuff, hoping against hope that the blind squirrel would find another nut. After half a dozen tries, 'Preparing your desktop...' actually took me into Windows.
"Your profile is corrupt. This is a temporary profile; any changes you make will not be saved. Contact your system administrator."
I'll take that deal. By this time it was late Wednesday night. We had gone from Winter to Spring in one day, and our air conditioner is broken. Windows is going to have to wait.
So, what went on with the leaking fuel tank during the same period? Well, that's another story.
I put it back on the airplane Monday night, then went to find the gas guy to put five gallons of gas in. The idea was to put in five gallons at a time in case it leaked; we'd be able to locate the leaking area, if there is one, more easily that way.
There was good news and bad news. The bad news was that they wanted $6.18/gal for it. The good news? They didn't have any.
Tuesday night I stopped by again. I chased down the gas dude and told him I still needed that five gallons of gas, and that I'd meet him at the hangar. After ten minutes of waiting for him, I figured there had been a miscommunication somewhere. I was just getting ready to go find him when I heard "Chuff..... Bang..... Growl..... Chuff...." somewhere down the taxiway. A few minutes later, the truck emerged around the corner of the hangars, doing about half a mile an hour. I apologized to the fuel dude, "I didn't know I was supposed to help you push it."
An inspection on Wednesday afternoon showed no leakage. I decided to skip the five-gallons-at-a-time test due to the difficulty in getting the fuel truck out there, so I went with ten gallons. As I was patting myself on the back for being such a swell guy and saving the fuel dude the effort and humiliation of driving that busted up truck out to my hangar, I saw the receipt that I was signing:
$6.70/gallon.
Sigh.
Swear.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
A new day
Having had a distinctly unproductive day on Saturday, I figured Sunday could only be better. To start the day off, I revisited the aborted attempt at tapping a couple of 10-24 holes in the pins that will hold the larger wing pins in place, who in turn will would the wings onto the airplane both in flight and on the ground. The first of those being pretty near and dear to my heart, as you can imagine.
I got to thinking that perhaps I was a tad over quick in blaming my woes on the well respected Harbor Freight Tool Emporium and maybe, just maybe, there was a little fault on my side of the equation. For you see, I had not verified that the starter holes in the pins were actually of the correct diameter for tapping to a 10-24 size. I pulled out my handy Aircraft Mechanics Handbook and took a look at the size required:
A-ha! A #26 bit! I have one of those, so I tried it out in the existing starter holes. It fit with room to spare. So there, Harbor Freight. Not. My. Fault. In fact, the Sears tap included a #25 bit, which is one size larger, and it fit easily into the holes too.
I clamped in the first pin, gave the tap a light coating of Boelube, and it screwed in as easily as a light bulb. Thank you, Sears.
These pins will have magnets inside of them that will work as a safety switch. If the pins are not installed, or not installed correctly, the magnets won't close the switches that allow the engine ignition to work. The first step was to find the magnets and switches in all of the bags of stuff. Luckily, it was a "find one and you've found them both" situation.
I was less lucky in finding the two screws that I needed. I read through the inventory sheets over and over to no avail. At one point I even sent a text message to Kyle, apprentice roadie and catering assistant for The Jackson Two, to ask if he remembered having had any trouble finding those little buggers. "Nope, they're in one of the 'Misc' bags."
And so they were. There they are, plane (heh, 'plane' instead of 'plain') as day: 10-24 BAFFLE SCREW. Well, they sure had me baffled! [rim shot]
With the wonderful Sears tap, the screws rolled right in. The magnet went in easily too.
The magnets are held in with epoxy. One of the nice things about having scrap metal lying around is that there is no shortage of mixing surfaces and tools:
One of the not quite as nice things about having scrap metal lying around is that it sometimes has dangerous edges and points. I gave myself an impromptu TB test with this one:
I held the pins upright in the vise while the epoxy set.
Then I found an easier way:
Next I was supposed to cut 1/4" pieces of clear tube and push them down into 1/4" ID bushings. That sounded a lot like something that would be a pain to do, so I went a different route. First I tapped the full length of tube into the bushing.
The bushing was already 1/4", so the net result was the same.
All I had to do was cut off the excess tube.
The little pins inside the bigger pins are spring loaded. The springs slip right in.
The pins, however, did not. They were quite stiff and very reluctant to go into the bigger pins. I buffed the internal pins with a small piece of Scotchbrite pad, and smeared a little grease on them. After working them in and out of the tubes for awhile, everything got loosened up. The screws and bushings were put in to finish the assembly.
I couldn't think of a better place to store them than in the airplane, so in they went.
Having finished something successfully for the first time all weekend, I decided to push my luck and go on to the next part. These are the electrical transfer plates that will meet with the plates in the wing roots to carry power and ground out into the wing. They get trimmed and drilled to match a provided template.
Clecos and clamps are used to ensure that the plastic part doesn't move in relation to the template.
Then the terminals are separated from a strip. Eight are needed per side, ten are provided. The band saw made short work of the job.
The rivets sit way too close to each other for the rivet puller to get in there, but I was afraid to just pull one rivet first and hope that the terminals were still loose enough to turn for alignment. I ended up pushing the second rivet in from the back side and holding it in place while I pulled the front side rivet.
Taaa-daaaaa! Perfect, right? Really?? Look again. Still think it looks okay? Well then, ask yourself this: what am I going to use for a template on the other one of these if I leave it riveted to the first one?? Ah, there's the problem: it's not supposed to be riveted to the first one.
Drill out the rivet, swear profusely.
In the end, though, it turned out nicely.
I decided to push my luck. There was only one step left on the page. "Modify a grommet by squeezing it in a vise. There will be a distinct crunching sound when it is accomplished."
Now those of you who were with me when I attempted to mis-use a vise during the fabrication of the longerons will remember why this promised crunching sound didn't seem like a good idea. For those of you who weren't, consider this:
Vises are made for holding things, not squeezing things.
Still, Van's said to do it, so do it I did.
It turned out fine, but I'd be lying if I were to say that I didn't have a moment of concern at crunch time.
On my way out of the hangar, I remembered that I had promised to verify that a few mystery holes were supposed to have been filled with something by the time the firewall sealant was used to seal the firewall. Here's the picture of mine:
I got to thinking that perhaps I was a tad over quick in blaming my woes on the well respected Harbor Freight Tool Emporium and maybe, just maybe, there was a little fault on my side of the equation. For you see, I had not verified that the starter holes in the pins were actually of the correct diameter for tapping to a 10-24 size. I pulled out my handy Aircraft Mechanics Handbook and took a look at the size required:
A-ha! A #26 bit! I have one of those, so I tried it out in the existing starter holes. It fit with room to spare. So there, Harbor Freight. Not. My. Fault. In fact, the Sears tap included a #25 bit, which is one size larger, and it fit easily into the holes too.
I clamped in the first pin, gave the tap a light coating of Boelube, and it screwed in as easily as a light bulb. Thank you, Sears.
These pins will have magnets inside of them that will work as a safety switch. If the pins are not installed, or not installed correctly, the magnets won't close the switches that allow the engine ignition to work. The first step was to find the magnets and switches in all of the bags of stuff. Luckily, it was a "find one and you've found them both" situation.
I was less lucky in finding the two screws that I needed. I read through the inventory sheets over and over to no avail. At one point I even sent a text message to Kyle, apprentice roadie and catering assistant for The Jackson Two, to ask if he remembered having had any trouble finding those little buggers. "Nope, they're in one of the 'Misc' bags."
And so they were. There they are, plane (heh, 'plane' instead of 'plain') as day: 10-24 BAFFLE SCREW. Well, they sure had me baffled! [rim shot]
With the wonderful Sears tap, the screws rolled right in. The magnet went in easily too.
The magnets are held in with epoxy. One of the nice things about having scrap metal lying around is that there is no shortage of mixing surfaces and tools:
One of the not quite as nice things about having scrap metal lying around is that it sometimes has dangerous edges and points. I gave myself an impromptu TB test with this one:
I held the pins upright in the vise while the epoxy set.
Then I found an easier way:
Next I was supposed to cut 1/4" pieces of clear tube and push them down into 1/4" ID bushings. That sounded a lot like something that would be a pain to do, so I went a different route. First I tapped the full length of tube into the bushing.
The bushing was already 1/4", so the net result was the same.
All I had to do was cut off the excess tube.
The little pins inside the bigger pins are spring loaded. The springs slip right in.
The pins, however, did not. They were quite stiff and very reluctant to go into the bigger pins. I buffed the internal pins with a small piece of Scotchbrite pad, and smeared a little grease on them. After working them in and out of the tubes for awhile, everything got loosened up. The screws and bushings were put in to finish the assembly.
I couldn't think of a better place to store them than in the airplane, so in they went.
Having finished something successfully for the first time all weekend, I decided to push my luck and go on to the next part. These are the electrical transfer plates that will meet with the plates in the wing roots to carry power and ground out into the wing. They get trimmed and drilled to match a provided template.
Clecos and clamps are used to ensure that the plastic part doesn't move in relation to the template.
Then the terminals are separated from a strip. Eight are needed per side, ten are provided. The band saw made short work of the job.
The rivets sit way too close to each other for the rivet puller to get in there, but I was afraid to just pull one rivet first and hope that the terminals were still loose enough to turn for alignment. I ended up pushing the second rivet in from the back side and holding it in place while I pulled the front side rivet.
Taaa-daaaaa! Perfect, right? Really?? Look again. Still think it looks okay? Well then, ask yourself this: what am I going to use for a template on the other one of these if I leave it riveted to the first one?? Ah, there's the problem: it's not supposed to be riveted to the first one.
Drill out the rivet, swear profusely.
In the end, though, it turned out nicely.
I decided to push my luck. There was only one step left on the page. "Modify a grommet by squeezing it in a vise. There will be a distinct crunching sound when it is accomplished."
Now those of you who were with me when I attempted to mis-use a vise during the fabrication of the longerons will remember why this promised crunching sound didn't seem like a good idea. For those of you who weren't, consider this:
Vises are made for holding things, not squeezing things.
Still, Van's said to do it, so do it I did.
It turned out fine, but I'd be lying if I were to say that I didn't have a moment of concern at crunch time.
On my way out of the hangar, I remembered that I had promised to verify that a few mystery holes were supposed to have been filled with something by the time the firewall sealant was used to seal the firewall. Here's the picture of mine:
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